Kiwi Camping in the Coromandel

On Lake Tekapo

On my dad’s side of the family, camping was a big deal. In fact, I referred to my paternal grandparents for years as Camping Grandma and Camping Grandpa. Camping took different forms for different generations. The honored ancestors traveled in style with a popup camper, and eventually they graduated to an RV. The indoor digs were especially great as it meant Grandma could make us animal-shaped pancakes! Dad’s style involved a canvas tent, sleeping bags, a cooler and the Coleman stove. We generally jumped into the car and headed out on the open road for a few weeks, staying in National Forests along the way. There was a LOT of driving on these trips. I’ve seen pretty much most of the National Parks and Forests in the western United States, as a result. Played all the car games invented. Created some new ones with my brother. Oh, and had some colossal car fights with said sibling, followed by the Angry Hand seeking retribution and silence. You know what I’m talking about if the phrase “Don’t make me stop this car” strikes fear into your heart. The good times included getting to try ALL the sodas made by Cragmont. We always had two of each flavor, and this was the only time we got to have most of them. And I especially remember my mom keeping me entertained at some forest campground, by showing me how to make “fairy circles” out of flowers and stones. Chuck has been expanding my repertoire of camping experiences. We’ve been snow camping, on a cross-country ski trip around the rim of Crater Lake. (Did you know that you don’t need a flashlight to go pee, when you’re snow camping? At least, not if the moon’s out. The snow is bright enough.) We did some “free camping” around Scotland, although NOT on the island of Iona. There is NO camping on Iona. It took us until almost midnight to figure out where to sleep when we didn’t believe the tourist office on that one. And now, we’ve experience Kiwi camping.

Sunrise at Hahei Beach

Kiwi camping is… well, posh. Now, to be fair, I don’t mean those hardy New Zealanders who are following in Sir Ed‘s lofty footsteps. There are some hardcore campers here, as there are anywhere that mountain climbers and adrenaline junkies congregate. No, I’m talking about family camping at the local holiday park. We discovered this phenomenon a year or so ago, when we decided on a whim to go out to the Coromandel Peninsula for a few days after New Year’s. This is a finger of land that sticks up east of Auckland. During holiday weekends and summer vacations, the Big City empties out as family vehicles queue on their way to Coromandel beaches. Little did we know that we were lucky just to get a camping spot, at this time of year. We booked a space at the Hahei Holiday Resort, an impressive low-cost lodging mecca which features not only slots for tents and room for RVs, but also a vast assortment of cottages, cabins, villas and even a backpackers (that’s Kiwi for “youth hostel”). Not to mention that it is a literal hop-skip-and-a-jump from the white-sand Hahei Beach

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Kiwi Camping

As we pulled in, we noticed that the camp sites resembled enormous parking spaces. Yes, they were all in rows, so you’d be within easy distance of your neighbor. More noticeable were the tents. Or should I say canvas palaces? Imagine those old canvas tents with hollow metal poles and peaked tops, which I associate with car camping of my childhood. Back in the early 1980s, our family tent was beige and green and perhaps 9 feet by 12 feet. Now, triple or quadruple that. Add a room-sized awning and perhaps a separate canopy (in Kiwi: a marquee) for eating under. Don’t forget a stove, a small TV, lawn chairs, picnic tables, and a full complement of pots and pans from home. Oh, and possibly a gas-run fridge. Yes, some people bring REFRIGERATORS to go camping. Funny thing? There are shared kitchens which have their own fridges and electric stoves onsite. So, I guess it just didn’t do to walk all the way over there for another beer? To be fair, these are the families that plan to be there for two weeks minimum. Unlike the inland American tradition of the family roadtrip, many New Zealanders look forward to the holidays so they can go to the beach and relax for sun-soaked days on end. Bouts of sunbathing, socialising, and barbecues are interrupted every few days for a trip “into town” for provisions. (Invariably, this means that the grocery stores in these places are packed with sun-dazed holidaymakers, wandering around distractedly.) Not that the holiday park is in the bush. Just that villages like Hahei swell to 10 times their size when the vacation crowd is around.

Gemstone Bay

As we pulled in, our well-established neighbors to the left were asking our right-hand neighbors whether they wanted some help setting up their mid-sized tent and outbuildings. That father veritably snarled his negative response. So, when we started pulling out our gear, the jocular gentleman joked that he and his buddies were going to just sit back and watch us get set up. Chuck told me to go read a book, when I offered to help. Five minutes later, the tent was up. The beer-happy neighbor asked Chuck whether our two person pup-tent was where the dog was sleeping? Where was the rest of the gear? Chuck almost got the book thrown at him, when he responded with a similar jest about who WAS sleeping in the tent. Families come back to the same place for years, even decades. We learned about this tradition from these Hahei neighbors. We were invited over for a beer and ended up partaking in an evening feast for at least 10 family, friends and neighbors. This family had been coming to the same place for the last 18 years, usually getting the same exact campsite. They book the spot a year in advance and know almost all their neighbors. We got our spot because someone left early. They couldn’t believe that we were only staying one night. After all, they were there for about three weeks of the summer + Christmas holiday. I began to understand what Kiwis mean when they say they’re “going to the beach” for Christmas. They definitely mean more than a BBQ on the sand. It’s more like going to camp, except the whole family comes along. I suspect my Bulgarian and Romanian friends will be able to relate, with their August holidays on the Black Sea. Indeed, there is a long tradition of New Zealanders repairing to the seaside for a relaxing time. They even have a special Kiwi term for the family cabin — it’s call a bach. And it’s Kiwi as meat pies.

Hot Water Beach

Our trip to the Coromandel almost converted me to this style of sedentary seaside vacation. We visited nearby Hot Water Beach, where you dig your own hottub when the tide is low enough that thermal springs seep up through the sands. That time, the tide was starting to come in, so we didn’t get to build a tub, but we were able to sit in the warm sand and feel the water, while our legs were being buffeted by the cool surf. Chuck was okay with this because he had just stepped into a sink hole where the hot water was bubbling straight up to the surface. He got in up to his knee, which meant the water was SUPER hot down there near his foot. I don’t think I’ve ever seen him move so fast! He jumped out of there and ran out to the cold surf to cool off. He was lucky not to be scalded. On another trip, I did get to both sunbathe and soak simultaneously. A friend from the Northwest was exultant at being able to work on his tan in mid-March! Hahei Beach itself is a wonderful place to walk on the gentle white-sand beach, either day or night. Chuck and I noticed triboluminescent sea creatures fluorescing in the surf under a starry sky. And I’ve also witnessed a stupendous sunrise on that beach. Up the road is Te-Whanganui-a-Hei Marine Reserve, which features white stone cliffs and aquamarine waters. Several bays feature limpid waters, making snorkeling a popular pasttime. It’s both mesmerizing and eerie to swim through waving forests of seaweed, staring at fish and sea snails and sea anenomes. It felt like coming out of a dream whenever I raised put my head above water.

Fiordland National Park

Since our little jaunt to Coromandel, we’ve discovered that holiday parks are indeed the way to go. Especially if you’re living on a budget and really just need a place to crash. If a sleeping bag isn’t your style, the cabins can be cozy, too. Nevertheless, we have not been converted to the luxury of Kiwi camping nor to the settled home-away-from-home holiday. There’s just too much to see and too many experiences to have, for me to want to stay in one place every vacation. Indeed, isn’t the point of camping to get away from so-called civilization? Perhaps my favorite memory from New Zealand will be camping in Fiordland National Park on a tumultous rainy night, with thunder echoing up and down the hundreds of glacier-etched canyons around us. The glow of the lupins at dusk, the pounding of nearby waterfalls, the sound of rain on the silver beech trees, and the sense of easy satisfaction from having a warm meal and dry clothes on. These are what camping offers best. Nevertheless, our camping Kiwi neighbors have taught me that nothing beats a healthy, home-cooked meal eaten outside at a picnic table in beautiful surroundings. Because, when the weather is nice in New Zealand, you don’t really need fancy digs. You just need the great Kiwi outdoors.

Come along to the Coromandel: NZ – Coromandel by jocuteca.

Tail of the Fish

I’ve been compiling a visual tour of New Zealand on Flickr. The first region ready for your visit is Northland. This is the long, skinny strip of land north of Auckland. It’s also known as Te Hiku-o-te-Ika or the Tail of the Fish. This comes from the Māori origin story for New Zealand, wherein the semi-divine hero Māui plies the South Pacific in his waka. The carved canoe of Māui is now prosaically called the South Island of New Zealand. The North Island in the Māori language is Te-Ika-a-Māui, the fish that Māui hauled up from the ocean below. If you look at it on a map, keep in mind that the fish was supposedly a stingray. So, Northland is the stinger end of Aotearoa.

I’ve arranged the photos in sets so that you can take your tour in short jaunts. The journey starts at the tip of the tail. Cape Rēinga is the very tippy-top of New Zealand. In Māori, it is known as Te Rerenga Wairua or the “leaping-off place.” Māori believe that this is where their souls migrate when they die. The souls follow the coastline to this spot, where they climb down the roots of an 800-year old pōhutukawa tree and continue onward to Hawaiiki. Interestingly, Hawaiiki is the name of both the ancestal island homeland of the Māori and the underworld. This interesting ambiguity makes me think of stories about Hy-Brasil and Atlantis. The Cape is also home to the northernmost lighthouse in New Zealand. Plus, you can see and hear two oceans crashing into one another – the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. This is truly an awesome experience. Visit the tail at NZ – Cape Reinga by jocuteca.

The voyage continues southward to Ninety-Mile Beach, an incredibly flat beach that can be driven on, but only at low tide. This is because the beach inclines so gradually that the tides move out hundreds and hundreds of feet. You can walk into the surf a long, long way without getting your shorts wet! Ninety-Mile Beach is actually only 55 miles long, making it closer to Ninety-Kilometer Beach. Which would be more appropriate now that Kiwis are on the metric system. But not nearly as poetic. It is backed by extensive sand-dunes, which has sparked the hobby of sandboarding. Most of these photos are by friend Dave, since my camera was not cooperating. Go Dave! Take a walk on the beach at NZ – 90 Mile Beach by jocuteca.

The majestic kauri tree is native to the northern third of the North Island. In earlier times, Northland was covered with majestic kauri forests. Now, your best chance to see these kings of the New Zealand forest  is in one of several conservation parks. I’ve been to a number of these places, and it is always an awe-inspiring experience. Funny thing is, I just last week noticed that there is a kauri in the park down the street from our house! Kauri are among the most ancient trees in the world. They grow to great heights, towering over the other greenery in the surrounding bush. Their long, branchless trunks of hard wood made them attractive for the masts on European sailing ships. As a result, kauri forests were decimated through heavy logging from the 1820s onward. Fossilized kauri resin was also valuable resource for making varnishes in the 19th century. Large populations of Dalmatians (people from the coast of Croatia) immigrated to dig the kauri gum from the ground. Today, kauri are a protected species that may not be harvested. You will find plenty of kauri woodwork, however, as crafters are allowed to use fallen kauri that’s been preserved in peat swamps for up to 45,000 years. See the living trees at NZ – Kauri Forests by jocuteca.

One of the most beautiful places in New Zealand is the Bay of Islands. Located on the east coast of Northland, this tourist mecca is home to the oldest European settlements in New Zealand. The modern backpacker haven of Paihia sits across a lovely bay from the first permanent Kiwi capital of Russell. Although it’s hard to believe it of this quaint town today, but Russell used to be considered a hellhole and den of iniquity. No wonder, then, that the Māori signed the founding Treaty of Waitangi near here, in a bid to get the Queen to control her subjects. I’m entertained by Russell’s Māori name, Kororareka, which means “tasty little blue penguin.” Nowadays, the Bay is home to some of the best sailors in the world. And I’d argue that it also hosts some of the most gorgeous sunsets. See Paihia and Russell at NZ – Bay of Islands by jocuteca.

Also in the Bay of Islands, Waitangi is a small town famous as the spot where the British signed their first agreement with the Māori on 29 January 1840. The Treaty of Waitangi is the founding document of the country, despite being mostly ignored by the  government for the next 140 years. Since the 1980s, the treaty has re-emerged in importance. In fact, some Māori iwi (essentially, tribes) have even had lands restored to them as a collective body. In this sense, New Zealand is taking some pretty progressive moves in acknowledging indigenous rights. It doesn’t hurt that the treaty, or Te Tiriti o Waitangi, was originally written and signed in the Māori language. Yes, even by the British representative. Most of the photos are from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where I attended the 2009 Waitangi Day celebrations. See the treaty grounds, waka, and lots of great Māori carvings at NZ – Waitangi by jocuteca.

Kawakawa is a charming little town just inland from the Bay of Islands.  The main street is a nice place to shop for souvenirs and watch the vintage steam train “Gabriel” chug by. But really, the biggest tourist attraction is the public restroom. Clearly, famous Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser loved the little place, as he made this his second home. And when the town needed to update the rundown public facilities, he volunteered to design and help construct them. We had to make a pilgrimage there for my mother, who is a huge Hundertwasser fan. Now, I stop in Kawakawa to use the loo whenever I’m nearby. Not only are they immaculately clean, the Kawakawa toilets are covered floor to ceiling with colorful tiles, glass bottles, found metal objects and a tree growing through the roof. You have to be on the lookout for tourists with cameras when you’re trying to use the actual commode, though! Visit New Zealand’s best bathroom at NZ – Kawakawa & Hundertwasser by jocuteca.

I mentioned the small town of Waipu earlier as the home of 1,000 highland Scots. Outside the town of Waipu is a playground of weathered rocks and limestone caves. The rock maze near the carpark may be the best place I’ve ever seen for playing hide ‘n’ seek or making up adventures. The caves are shallow but mesmerizing. Susan and I climbed into the back of one and sat long enough to see a few glowworms hanging around on the ceiling. Play amongst the rocks at NZ – Waipu Caves by jocuteca.

A few days after I arrived in New Zealand, Chuck took me on a quick overnight trip up north. We spent a chilly night in a rental van on the east coast and woke early to watch sunrise on Pakiri Beach. On another visit with guests, we discovered that this is an excellent breeding ground for numerous shore birds, including the very rare NZ fairy tern. We were fortunate to see two or three out of the 50 still extant. I was enchanted enough to drag poor Chuck back to Pakiri a month later, in hopes of seeing them hatch a newborn chick. Alas, we were too early. But we enjoyed the funny little NZ dotterels and peeping oystercatchers, who were close enough to see. Wake up with the sun at NZ – Pakiri Beach by jocuteca.

Whenever we head north, we do our best to stop at Goat Island Marine Reserve. The island itself is one of numerous Goat Islands around the English-speaking world — places where goats were put on islands because they could live on anything and could provide food for shipwrecked sailors. This is not only a conservation area but also a great place to go snorkeling! The waters are so clear sometimes that you can see the fish by standing on the volcanic rock formations and peering downwards. We’ve passed many hours swimming with the sociable blue snapper and diving for sea urchin shells. One visit also scared the daylights out of me, when we realized that we had entered the low-tide waters quite near a testy stingray. Peering at him through the water, we noticed that his tail went up whenever the tides pushed us too close. Only on a latter trip did we notice that the pōhutukawa trees onshore are home to a colony of karuhiruhi, or pied shags. Swim with the fishes at NZ – Goat Island Reserve by jocuteca.

If you want the best fish and chips on the North Island, there’s only one place to go: Leigh. Leigh is a sweet little town an hour or so north of Auckland. It’s only a few kilometers from Goat Island Marine Reserve, which means we have the perfect excuse to take lunch at Leigh Fish and Chips. On our first trip, we drove down the street for a dinner with a view. Who needs a fancy restaurant? A crew of red-billed gulls and a friendly dog did their best to partake in the toothsome meal. Stop for a snack at NZ – Leigh by jocuteca.

With all our jaunts north, I am surprised that I never discovered Tawharanui Regional Park until recently. This amazing coastal mainland sanctuary is rife with native birds and plants. The beaches are pleasant, and I understand that it’s another good snorkeling spot. We spent a great afternoon here with my dad and stepmom exploring sea-carved caves, wandering the beach, and watching tuis and bellbirds drink harakeke nectar. I definitely need to get back there again. Discover Tawharanui at NZ – Tawharanui Park by jocuteca.

In order to reach Leigh, Goat Island and Tawharanui, you have to turn off Highway 1 and drive through the bucolic Rodney countryside. You leave the beaten track in the small town of Warkworth and pass through the village of Matakana. I was reminded that I wasn’t in the city anymore, when I spotted a hand-lettered sign telling me “Your now on Matakana time.” I suppose it’s a good characterization of the speed of life in this region of vineyards, farmlands, and white-sand beaches. Leave the city behind at NZ – Matakana by jocuteca.

You couldn’t be blamed for missing a visit to little Puhoi. After all, you have to turn off the main highway and all you’ll see immediately is a little white church, a library open 4 hours a week, a pub/hotel, and the Bohemian Museum. Settled by German-speaking Bohemians in 1863, Puhoi is named after the lazy stream that flows through town.  Little did these new immigrants know that the inland parcels of countryside they’d signed up for was covered with native forest and required days in Māori canoes to reach. They survived and managed to transform the area into a bucolic countryside, now famous for excellent cheeses. The center of activity is the Puhoi bar and hotel, a prime example of the enduring tradition of Kiwi inns as the rural drinking establishments. This particular destination is popular with motorcyclists, who fill the biergarten-like outdoor tables on sunny days. Drink a pint in Puhoi at NZ – Puhoi by jocuteca.

Considering my new birdwatching addiction, I knew I had to do the day trip to Tiritiri Matangi. This is one of many offshore islands in New Zealand that have been turned into native bird sanctuaries. The opportunity came on a beautiful sunny day with my good friend Susan. We wandered the island, in search of takahē, saddlebacks, stitchbirds and the elusive kōkako. Raucous kākāriki (NZ parakeets) and talkative tuis led the constant bird chorus. And I was ecstatic to spy a little blue penguin swimming in the bay! I watched plenty of saddlebacks rustling in the underbrush and takahē brazenly parading around the Tiritiri lighthouse. Not to mention a bevy of chattering youngsters of the species Homo sapiens hogging the birdcall exhibit in the visitors center. But I never caught sight of the blue-wattled, warbling kōkako. I may have to stay overnight on Tiri to experience this. To make up for my disappointment, Susan and I had an excellent time leaning on the strong winds and trying not to fall on our faces, while on the ferry ride back. Wander around Tiri at NZ – Tiritiri Matangi by jocuteca.

Susan and I had an hour to kill before braving Auckland traffic after our island adventure, so we decided to check out nearby Shakespear Park. We took a quick jaunt into the bush but spent most of the time hanging out with a friendly bunch of long-legged pukeko. These flightless smaller cousins of the takahē showed off their black and blue plumage and skinny red legs, in the hopes of dancing their way into our lunch sacks. Snack with the pukeko at NZ – Shakespear Park by jocuteca.

And this concludes our tour of the Tail of the Fish. We’re pleased that you could join us on this jaunt and invite you back for further travels with Jocuteca Tours. Our next trip will be either to rural Taranaki, home of Annette and the Patea Māori Club, or to every Kiwi’s favorite city, Auckland. Stay tuned!